Istanbul - 2

(follow up to part 1)

Now remember this name if you want to visit most happening, most shopping, most eating and most popular street in Istanbul - Istiklal Avenue. It is located in old historic Beyoglu district. Besides many trendy shops and tasty food courts, it is great place to go for people-watching. If you don't have much time, still try to go there (not far from Galata Tower and Taksim Square where you'll definitely end up somehow!) just to walk through once, but if you have time then try to explore all hidden side streets and passages there. And be ready to be ripped-off tourist way :)) Well, last sentence is just a joke, but every joke hides some truth.


Towards the mid part of the avenue is located Galatasaray Square and Galatasaray Lyceum. The name actually more known for the football club Galatasaray SK. As I know all the management people of the club should be the graduate of this lyceum that gives education in Turkish and French. It's sort of elite school.


As you reach the other end of Istiklal street, you open up to Taksim Square.

Another attraction in Istiklal Avenue is the tram that operates only along this street. More for tourists than a public transportation.

Taksim Square is located in a major shopping, tourist and leisure area. It has same meaning for Istanbul as Wencesclas Square for Prague or Tiananmen Square for Beijing. It is the main central square of the city, and all kind of celebrations happen here. These can be national holidays or the victories of Turkish football teams or some concerts. In the middle of the square stands the Republic Monument that commemorates the formation of the Turkish Republic. In past, it was the main place for the political protests. Nowadays the protests are forbidden.

My big friend and host in Istanbul - Maha, standing in front of the Republic Monument.

As I wrote earlier, another must-do thing is the Bosphorus tour by boat (Yulia, note them all down!). You can for the long tours that takes you around the Bosphorus, or you can just hop on the ferry that operates between few ferry stations. It's also very practical if you want to reach Kadikoy from Eminonu, for example. This time I didn't go for it, but during my previous visits I've been to many tours. One of the best ones was the night Bosphorus tour organized by Koc University for the international debaters in 2003. We had whole big boat for our own, music playing loud and people dancing while touring the Bosphorus, flow of doner kebaps and drinks... And it stopped right opposite Laila, probably the most famous high-class night clubs of Istanbul by seaside, and suddenly people in Laila was watching us!


Later we ended up in the local weekend attraction point - Ortakoy. The beauty of this place lies in its view of the Bosphorus, the combination of the mosque, sea and the bridge that connects two continents... There are lots of restaurants and teahouses, as well as street sellers in this area. and it's one of the popular places for the locals to spend their weekends..


Later in the evening we were invited for some tea in Doni's house. It was to catch up with old buddy and remember old good days. And I got the latest updates on some other buddies who had been living in Turkey. His son is already grown up! Well, he's the first to get married among our classmates although we were always thinking that he'd be one of the last. :)


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Istanbul

Denizde balıkla doğa kaynaşır,
Martıları kanat çırpar oynaşır,
Asya, Avrupa'yla sevgi paylaşır,
Güzellik aşkıyla yanar İstanbul.
(Kadir Kaya)

Agree with me or not, but I see Istanbul as the connecting point of the world. Seriously! Well, there are tonns of reasons and here are some; it connects continental Asia with Europe, Black Sea with Aegean and Mediterranean Seas, Christian world with Muslim world, the gateway to Arabic and Turkic world for the Europeans and vice-versa. Where else can you find that?

Every visit gives me something new about this place besides satisfying my nostalgia about life in Turkey. The itinerary is more or less the same every time. Start a day somewhere in Taksim square, have a walk along famous Istiklal street, enjoy Turkish cuisine and excellent customer service in one of the local restaurants, pay visit to Blue Mosque and enjoy its calming atmosphere, take yet another series of photos of the same things to get the feeling of being tourist in this amazing city. Next comes walking down to Eminonu and getting into Grand Bazaar or Misir Bazaar, and then go for Bosphorus tour on the boat... Maha, friend of mine from university days, hosted me and showed around. Istanbul is one of the cities where I have many friends even though over the past years many of them left the city, thus a roof and a bed is always guaranteed.

One thing I always miss about Turkey is tea. Not that they have special sort of tea. Neither that tea has its own culture like in Indo-China. I think it's the timing. Like Spanish enjoy the coffee after meal, Turks enjoy tea. What makes this tea sessions more pleasant is these typical Turkish small glasses with slim belly;


Another must-do in Istanbul is the visit to historic Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Mosque, 1616). It's called Blue because of its interior blue tiles. It's interior and exterior views makes it one of the most impressive monuments in the world. Sheer brilliance of Middle Ages architecture!

Getting ready to pray, washing certain parts of your body - abdest.

I decided to explore couple of other famous spots that I never stepped on (into) before. One of them was Galata Tower (1348). It's the cylinder like shaped tower with conic roof that is located on one end of Istiklal street, Taksim Square is on the other end. It was built Byzantines. From the observation point on the top, there's great view of Istanbul, its mosques and castles, Golden Horn, sea, etc.

Galata Tower from below

View of the city and Bosphorus from Galata Tower

View of the Galata Bridge from the tower

Video panorama:


(View of the Bosphorus from Galata Tower)


(View of the Golden Horn from Galata Tower)

There's also Galata Bridge. Although I am not sure about its history (doesn't look historical anyway), but it is very popular among the locals as a fishing spot. On the other side of the bridge there's Eminonu; famous place with its Eminonu Fishermen Boats that cook and sell the freshly caught fish directly from the boat!

Fisherman on Galata Bridge

Fishermen Boat at Eminonu

While at Eminonu, I met up with my friend from school, Doni, in Spice Bazaar. He works there in the silver shop that sells all sort of silver jewelery and kitchen stuff. He is also my souvenir gift supplier every time I come to Istanbul. In the evening, we met up with more other friends, Sadyr and Manas, and went to the supposedly best Iskender Kebap restaurant in the city (forgot the name, but I can ask).

Spice Bazar (Misir Carsisi)

Due to the triumph of Galatasaray in Turkish Football league this year, the streets and balconies are decorated with yellow-red Galatasaray flags. My favourite team, by the way. ;)


Another place I never visited before was Yerebatan Sarnıcı, or the Basilica Cistern. This time I didn't miss my chance. It is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that still lie beneath Istanbul. It is located close to Hagi Sophia. And was built during the reign of Byzantine emperor Justinian I in the 6th century. This underground structure was known as the “Basilica Cistern” as its was built underneath the Stoa Basilica. It provided water for the Great Palace of Constantinople, and continued to provide water to the Topkapi Palace after the Ottoman conquest in 1453 and into modern times.




There are 2 columns with the head of Medusa on the base. Wikipedia says that the origin of the two heads is unknown, though it is rumoured that the heads were brought to the cistern after being removed from an antique building of the late Roman period. Another mystery is why one of the heads is upside down, while the other is tilted to one side. It is commonly accepted by scientists that they were placed that way deliberately.


Another place I wanted to visit, but had no chance this time, is Kiz Kulesi (Princess' Island). Well, next time.

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Photo of the Day: Ortaköy Mosque and Bosphorus Bridge

DSC04494, originally uploaded by aibek_dunaev.

For me, it's one of the symbolical views of Istanbul. Combination of mosque, sea and the bridge that connects two continents... There are lots of restaurants and teahouses, as well as street sellers in this area. and it's one of the popular places for the locals to spend their weekends..

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Her majesty Istanbul

P6170149, originally uploaded by aibek_dunaev.

I love this city. And every time I pass via Istanbul, I steal a day to go to some favorite places to realize that how much I admire it even though I never lived there.

See you next month!

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Turkey: No visas for citizens of Turkic republics

Despite the pressure from EU, Turkey will not require visa from other Turkic republics (Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan). President A.Gul said that there shouldn't be such barriers between brother countries in order to build our own commonwealth like the the commonwealth of english speaking countries.
One of the ex-presidents of Turkey, Turgut Ozal, was trying to initiate to build such a commonwealth and was doing great in building strong relationship with Turkic countries in the early 90ies. He died (some say he was poisoned) before he could achieve it. I am glad to see the similar vision from the current Turkish government. Central Asian countries possess one of the biggest reserves of natural resources, have big youth population, and thus if Turkey takes the leadership to build such a strong dream commonwealth, then all these countries would benefit greatly from it and Turkey would need to join EU as well.

It's really hard to understand Turkey politics. Forget about outside forces, they already have many extremely different inside forces, thus many inside clashes between political parties and their followers, between religious and non-religious groups, between Turks and many other minorities, etc. It is hardly likely that EU will accept Turkey (considering that Turkey will never give up Northern Cyprus and never accept Armenian genocide, and other matters), thus opening up to Central Asia is a possible plan B for Turkey. That's why it is good to keep some doors open.

Yet would Russia, US and China allow such a commonwealth?!......
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(Фергана.Ру) Несмотря на критику со стороны ЕС, Турция выступает за отмену виз для всех тюркоязычных стран
Несмотря на недовольство Европейского Союза, Турция намерена открыть границы для граждан всех тюркоязычных страны. Глава Турецкой Республики отправляется в Туркменистан и Казахстан, затем в Узбекистан и Кыргызстан, чтобы лично возглавить процесс объединения «братьев по крови». 8 ноября Евросоюз опубликовал ежегодный отчет о продвижении ситуации в Турции в отношении возможности членства в Европейском Союзе. В нем дается оценка деятельности правительства Турции по изменению законодательства страны и положения дел в других сферах. Как и ожидалось, кандидат на вступление в ЕС подвергся критике, в частности, за одностороннюю отмену виз для тюркоязычных стран. Напомним, соответствующее решение правительства Турции вступило в силу 30 июля сего года. В отчете ЕС отмечается, что отмена виз в отношении тюркоязычных стран (некоторые из них, по мнению ЕС, являются «неблагонадежными») является большой проблемой и несоответствием европейским достижениям. Тем временем, президент Турции Абдулла Гюль, накануне посетивший с официальным визитом Азербайджан, заявил, что его страна принципиально выступает за отмену визового режима между тюркоязычными странами вообще. Президент указал, что между братскими странами не должно существовать никаких препятствий для того, чтобы построить свое содружество вроде Содружества англоязычных стран. На следующей неделе Абдулла Гюль собирается посетить Туркменистан и Казахстан. В Узбекистан и Кыргызстан он также намерен поехать уже в этом году. «С тюркоязычными странами, с которыми в начале 1990-х годов мы имели романтические отношения, мы должны начать строить отношения, основанные на экономике», заявил президент Турции.
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Nostalgia

I came through the piece of paper with the following lyrics written on it while digging my old stuff. These are the chants (in Turkish) that we wrote to support our Kyrgyzstan team in international KVN (abbreviation for "Club of the Merry and Inventive" in Russian) competition in Turkey (2003). It included other national teams from Kazakh, Turkmen and Azerbaijani students studying in Turkey. The format of the competition was a bit different than classical KVN. It was organized in Bursa with the support of the Representatives of Ministries of Education of these 4 countries.
We, as a student senate, prepared and sponsored our team in Ankara (as this team was the winner in previous KVN competition among Kyrgyz students in Turkey). After great performance and tough challenge by Azerbaijani team, Kyrgyzstan team came up first! More than hundred Kyrgyz students came to support, and somehow we were seated in the mid-tribune, and both overcrowded and overshouted other teams' supporters. At that time I was the amigo with the whistle organizing the supporters. Everyone got the copy of the below chants numbered from 1 to 5. Whenever the support was needed, I was raising my hand high and showing the number of the chant with my fingers, and with the blow of the whistle all Kyrgyzstan supporters (dressed in white T-shirts with Kyrgyzstan flag) were singing them... great atmosphere! great performance! great support!
Those were the days when I really experienced the magnifying power and magic feeling of being united, being together. And that's what we need the most at the moment.

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Yalla Kırgızstan yalla
Vitesi beşe salla
Bizimkilere laf yok
Artist gibi maşallah
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Kervanın başı Orta Asya
Buraya geldik yarışmaya
Kupasız gitmek bize yakışmaz
Jüriler bize artı puan yaz
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Kırgızstan gençleri
Kervan ileri
Bu taraftar sizinle gurur duyuyor
Bu taraftar sizinle gurur duyuyor
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Türkmen, Kazak, Azeri! Sizlere selam!
Dostluk için geldik, gerisi yalan
Gözümüzde hepiniz en iyisiniz,
Ama merak etmeyin şampiyon biziz!
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Kırgızstan'da doğdu
Türkiye'li oldu
Helal olsun sana
Türkün Kırgız oğlu!
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Champion team - Guliza, Aktilek, Parizat, Jibek, Sayfuddin, Myrzahid,
Shamil, Ulan, Edil, Baktygul

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"Ne güzel İstanbul be!"

Ya ben bu bulundugumuz internet devrini sevdim bi kere. Gunde bir kac saat rahat rahat harciyorum, artik muhabbetler de, bilgi almak da, harita bakmak da, film izlemek de, yani bi ton sey direk internet uzerinden ya! Bir de shu Google ve YouTube gibi baba online sistemleri kuranlarin ellerine saglik olsun inshallah!

Son gunlerde ilgimi ceken tek bir sey var - oturup online YouTube ve Google Video'da film izliyorum; Osman Sinav'in Kurtlar Vadisi filmi. 3 sene once Turkiyedeyken pek takip edememishtim, tam ilgilenmeye bashladigim zamanda da ayrilmishtim Singapur'a. Gecenlerde de bir arkadashim www.seyretdizi.com sitesinden bahsetti. Baktim bir suru Turkce ve yabanci dizi ve filmler var orda, istersen indirip izle, istersen online izle. Ben de direk Kurtlar Vadisine daldim, ama shu an itibariyle 34. bolumu ancak bitirdim, daha bayaa var yani. :) Bunu bitirelim, ondan sonra Kurtlar Vadisi Pusu'yu da ilgisiz birakmayiz. ;)

Yukleyenlerin ellerine saglik!

Kurtlar Vadisi - online izle.

"Ölüm ölüm dediğin nedir ki, gülüm, ben senin için yaşamayı göze almışım ..."
"Namımızın büyüklüğü dostlarımızın büyüklüğündendir"
"Sonunu düşünen kahraman olamaz"
"Savaşmak için izin istersen vermez. Ama savaşır galip çıkarsan, mağlup muamelesi de etmez..."
"Akıllı insanlar yeni fikirleri tartışırlar. Normal insanlar sonuçları tartışırlar. Küçük insanlarsa başka insanları tartışırlar"
"Bir yerde küçük insanların büyük gölgeleri oluşuyorsa orada güneş batıyor demektir"
"Büyük güç, büyük sorumluluk ister"
"İki kişinin bildiği sır değildir"
"Biz ölmeyi çoktan göze aldık da, yanımızda kimler götürücez onu düşünüyoruz"

Unutulmayan Sozler (devami)
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Конфликт религиозного и светского образования

(www.ferghana.ru) Конфликт религиозного и светского образования на юге Киргизии - проблема, созданная искусственно
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Прочитал статью опубликованную на ferghana.ru, много раз до этого натыкался на подобные случаи в Турции. Подход Ж.Джоробаевой к делу нельзя назвать стратегически правильным и конструктивным, скорее всего резким. Согласен с автором, что её действия раздувают проблему, и даже приобретают опасный оборот тем, что она указывает на узбекскую общественность в Кыргызстане. При этом задевая меньшинство в многонациональной стране.

Вообще ношение тюрбана (платка) символично указывает на границу решительности человека (точнее женской половины), за которой стоит покорность Божьей воле. Для женщин это один из самых важных и приоритетных шагов в их покорности. Конечно не избежать в какой-то мере социального давления, ограничением себя от более свободной социальной жизни, быть замеченной в толпе и стать целью не очень дружеских взглядов. Все это реально в нашем обществе, которое ещё не достаточно зрелое в плане религиозности.

Но это личный выбор человека, главное чтобы он пошел на это осознанно. Другое дело, когда молодых и юных девушек заставляют одевать платки, то ли старшие в семье то ли их окружение, лично видел и такие примеры, в таких случаях платок долго не держится на голове.

Когда я учился в Турции, некоторые наши преподаватели тоже имели особую неприязнь к платкам, точнее тем кто их носил во время уроков. Вообще, Турция страна контрастов, там живут самые ярые фундаменталисты, а также враги Ислама. Так вот, один из преподавателей на первом же уроке попросил девушек с платками выйти из класса или же снять платок. Девушки вышли. Надо заметить, что в нашем университете невозможно было пройти уроки без участия. Потом девушки нашли решение и начали одевать длинные парики (которые так же закрывали нужные части головы и шеи) на эти уроки, что решило все проблемы. Подобная проблема очень актуальнa в Стамбульском Университете, там вообще запрещают вход в кампус девушкам в платках.

Теперь хороший пример - Сингапур. Она является светским государством, думаю всем известно что за продвинутая это страна. В этой стране 75% населения состовляют китайцы (буддисты в основном) и только 15% малайы (почти все мусульмане), а остальные индусы и европейцы. В первые её годы существования как незавиимая страна было очень много стычек между китайцами и малаями на нациналистической и религиозной почве. С самого начала руководство страны очень осторожно и тонко отнеслось к свободе религиозной жизни и практики всех этих наций, и учитывали этот фактор при принятии законов, планировке образовательных программ, и тп. В том числе и факт о ношении платков мусульманских девушек в школах. И платок тоже является необязательной(альтернативной) частью школьной формы с одинаковым светом и оттенками. Тоже самое насчет длинных юбок.

Более того, если расширить тему, в вышеуказанных странах свободно функционируют мечети и храмы под контролем государства и здесь же учат молодых и взрослых к религии. Такой вариант и предлагает декан факультета шариата в статье. Без контроля тоже нельзя оставлять, ведь очень много разных экстремистических и фундаменталистических движений и миссионеров, и как раз в таких безконтрольных мечетях могут создаватся ячейки подобных движений или распространение неправильных и неточных религиозных материалов. Не говоря уже о неправильной методике обучения религии которая может охладить детей и взрослых от этой же религии. Контроль может быть создан через государственный орган вроде муфтията. В Турции даже создан Министерство по Религиозным Делам (Диянет). И нужны компетентные кадры-теологи. Каждый год Турция и многие другие арабские страны предоставляют Министерстве Образования Кыргызстана специальный контингент для бюджетного обучения теологии в этих странах. И каждый год десятки наших студентов поступают и уже давно начали заканчивать эти программы. А вот эти кадры могли бы составить более созрелый подход к религиозным делам и учению чем местные “муллы”. Качество их знания знают все, я сам ходил к ним в детстве, и прежде чем рассказывать о Боге и понятии о вере, они заставляли нас учить арабский алфавит и учить наизусть молитвы и суры из Курана. Конечно без всякого обьяснения о чем они говорят. Конечно, сбежал после пару сессий.

Я согласен, что не надо объединять светское и религиозное образование. Они могут предоставлятся школьникам отдельно и параллельно. Опять пример из Турции; если так и хочется получить углубленное религиозное образование рядом с обычным, то у них есть специальные Имам Хатипские Школы где эти 2 образования преподаются вместе. А так мечети и отдельные медресе могут преподавать религиозное знание. Подобная система прозрачного религиозного образования в мечетях под контролем государственного органа и альтернативная школьная форма имеет более конструктивный и эффективный смысл чем слепая атака на ношения платков в школах. Иначе это всегда будет вызывать отрицательную реакцию со стороны верующей части нашего общества. А это итак составляет большинство.
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Kepez

(www.samanyoluhaber.com) 5. Uluslararası Türkçe Olimpiyatları şarkı ve şiir yarışmasının yarı finali, adını olimpiyat için Türkçeleştiren Anadolu Gösteri ve Kongre Merkezi'nde gerçekleştirildi.
Kırgızistan'dan yarışmaya katılan Aida Risbekkizi, 'Kepez' isimli şiiri seslendirdi. Aida'nın mesajı söze gerek bırakmadı: Bu şiirin Türk dünyası için yazıldığını düşünüyorum. Türk dünyası hep ayakta olsun...
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A poem "Kepez" told by Kyrgyz girl Aida Risbekkizi in 5. International Turkish Language Olympiads currently happenning in Turkey. It is told in beautiful way and full of emotions. I was proud listening to her. Video here.

Suddenly it took me back to my not far away past, my school days in Kyrgyz-Turkish school, and university years in Turkey.
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first AIESEC brainwashing event ;)

AIESEC TURKEY Conference Turquoise 2004 poster is still on the wall of my old room in Ankara.
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Turkey Trip (being back "home")

My "journey for future" ticket.



My plane waiting to depart Taipei.



Blogging in Singapore Changhi airport ;) while waiting for my plane to Istanbul.



...over Indian ocean...



Dubai International airport



Topkapi Palace (22 Ottoman Sultans lived there) view from the bridge connecting Europe to Asia.



Inside Topkapi Palace.



I love Istanbul, I love its atmosphere (not everywhere)...



Inside Topkapi Palace.



Inside Topkapi Palace.



Topkapi Palace and Mramor Sea.



Cesme, spring water, just near the gates of Topkapi Palace.



Souvenir booths nearby Topkapi Palace.



near Hagia Sophia



Roof of Hagia Sophia.



Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii) in Istanbul, built during Ottoman Empire. (one of my favourite places in Istanbul)



Blue Mosque. How it looks from inside. Blue mosque is bult during Ottoman empire. Far at the front you can see people praying.



Blue Mosque door



Baktygul and Janna, my dearest friends.



Blue Mosque roof view from inside.



Souvenir shop at the basement of Hagi Sophia(used to be room for horses), my friend works there.



Istanbul University gates.



Feeding the pigeons in front of mosque.



Flag of Fenerbahce F.C. is hang everywhere, Fenerbahce became champion in football league this year. (Personally, I hate them, forza Galatasaray!!!)



One of DHL Turkey offices in Istanbul. "More Power".



Istanbul, tramway and cab sharing the same road.



Simitci - person who sells simits. It looks like dougnut, but not sweet. Traditional turkish bread, the best thing is to have simit with turkish black tea in the breakfast!



Kocatepe mosque in Ankara



Kocatepe Mosque at night.







Tank in Ankara, that day there was a protest by some party members (usual thing in Turkey).



Science tree, symbol of METU.



METU, Department of Computer Engineering. Where I studied.



2 Cups, our Ankara and Kyrgyzstan team became KVN champions among students in Turkey. (KVN - very popular game among university students in ex-USSR countries, here teams compete in cleverness, ability to be quick-responsive and funky and to compose all of these in songs).




Friends in Ankara, and my brother Kylych (2.row, 2. from left)



Mahamat and Anarbek, Kyrgyz friends who study in Ankara. Thanks for your hospitality, guys!



Bilen (big guy near me), friend and project team-mate, .Net geek ;). Traditional Turkish breakfast. Thanks for hosting me, guys!



Memati, one of Bilen's 2 kittens, were the main joy during our work on the project.



Cakir, the second kitten, was tired fighting with Memati and sleeping :).



Katana - sword of Samurai, I brought it for my friend Bilen from Taiwan. "The box" (read prev. posts) contained this katana. :)
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Another marriage. I know I know, recently I am sending too many posts about marriage of my brother and friends, I hope it won't be misinterpreted as I will be marrying soon. I just think that they deserve more than to be remembered in my blog. So this one is for Baktygul Abykeeva, who was like my sister and very good friend. She used to be my 'right-hand', vice-president of Kyrgyz student senate, when I was in charge of this senate in 2003-2004 years. She is a strong person with great personality, strong responsibility and always ready to help, especially, I was impressed with her actions in our project to help local Kyrgyz kids in Turkey (there is a village in Van (east Turkey) where Kyrgyz people live, they migrated there in last century). And now she got married with a Turkish officer in Turkey last September. In picture you can see; (Top row, left to right) Aigul, Ahmet abi (Nacho, this is the one who talked to you on the phone and you were thinking that he is my father:)), Saadat, (Bottom row, left to right) x-man, Baktygul's father, Baktygul herself and her mother.
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Back to beginning of story... Before my traineeship.

Before coming to Singapore for traineeship, I was in Ankara, Turkey. I was the student of METU, took active tasks in Kyrgyz Student Senate (for which I was president in 2003-2004 year), was a goalkeeper of my team (here I am striker now!:-)), etc. I had one of my best years in Ankara to meet a lot of Kyrgyz, Turkish and other foreigner friends. University life was tough, challenging and at the same time dynamic and full of excitement and enthusiasm, and it had its ups and downs. My tasks in student society added another dimension to my learnings, it took me into active youth work which helped develop myself a lot in leadership, interpersonal communications and being initiative. Especially my last year was very stressfull but at the end of the year I was the one who benefit a lot from that...
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