Adventures of Spaniards in Kyrgyzstan

Month of September was the highlight of the year. After more than a year, I went back home and spent some time with my family, and enjoyed communicating with my 3,5 years old nephew Nurseyit. Before going home I spent few days in Istanbul. Also, I met up with many of old friends and was glad to see that most of them were doing well, having their work and family life settled and going. Then my good friend, as well colleague, Alex and his girl-friend Vanessa made it all the way to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan for a visit and the culmination of all these was our trip to Astana for Leila's, another good friend of ours, wedding.

Now the focus here will be our Spaniards who have experienced ultimately different experience in that part of the world. As they put it in the best way, for them we (Kyrgyzs and Kazakhs) were "the Chinese looking Muslims who speak in Russian". Indeed, it is very intriguing when you think of it looking from their perspective. Nowhere else one could see such weird combination of characteristics from 3 different contradicting communities; Muslims, Russians and Chinese.

They stayed only 3 days in Kyrgyzstan. Initial plan was to go to Son-Kol (high-altitude mountain lake located on a beautiful landscape of green pastures, rivers and snowy mountains) for 2 days, live in yurta (nomadic tent-house), ride horses and do some hiking. But last moment snow in Son-Kol screwed up all our plans. Thanks to good friends, we quickly found alternative option somewhere close to Kegeti Gorge area.

They came from Almaty together with Dauren and Renata, our Kazakh friends. As to illustrate them a bit of our traditional cuisine, me and my high-school friend Adyl took them to the typical central asian "chayhana" style place, it is located somewhere along Mir Avenue (forgot the name). There instead of tables, you sit on the "topchan". It is a wooden base about 50-60 centimeters above the ground, with a roof. You sit on the carpet and "toshyok", some kind of cushion, and lean back to the pillows. Food is served on the low tables that stands on the middle, something like Japanese tables.

Chayhana (translated as "teahouse", but it offers much more)

Guests sitting on the topchan

As they have already tried "plov" in Kazakhstan, we ordered "dymdama" - well-cooked lamb with loads of freshly stewed vegetables. And green tea for digesting it well.

"Dymdama" - traditional Kyrgyz food

It turned out to be a challenge for Mediterranean guests to eat so much meat since they stepped into Central Asia (they didn't know that more was coming!). Another shock for them was the way we always drink tea with or after the meal. In Spain, they drink tea as medicine. :) Spanish people are hard core coffee drinkers, and that's what they usually drink after the meal. Another friend, Marat, came along with Petr, an interesting guy that I was glad to meet. He is from the German minority in Kyrgyzstan, successfully running his business in Kyrgyzstan. It was him who offered us an option to go the mountains where his uncle hosted the tourists.

Other shocking exploration for them was the way how both drivers and pedestrians ignore the traffic rules in Kazakhstan/Kyrgyzstan. Luckily we didn't have any problems due to recent power cuts of the traffic lights. :)

Later, we made an express tour around the city in my Adyl's car. To be honest, I was not sure what to show them in Bishkek. It is small, and nothing much of tourist attractions. So we just drove around the city a bit, and then walked around the main Ala-Too square till the White House, and then to Philarmony Theater area.

Ala-Too square

"Ak-Uy" ("White House")

Walking around Ala-Too square

Alex with the view of the tower of International University of Kyrgyzstan

Statue of Manas in front of Philarmony Hall

Vanessa

Afterwards, Petr picked us up to take to his uncle's place in the mountains where they hosted occassional tourists. Along the way we dropped by to his wife's family house in the village, and I could observe how Kyrgyz Germans were living in their own small village. I never thought that they would leave in such remote areas, and do animal and field farming. They had been there for more than a century, and completely settled down in that area.

The place we spent following 2 days was not too far from Bishkek, but it is not easy to find your way around. It was a private zone of our local German horse farmers. Located on the way to the gorge and on the pasture lands, it offers some basic wooden cottage and yurta stay together with 3 course meal only for 1000 soms (~30 USD) per person per day! I'd say really awesome deal considering that you stay in nicely decorated yurta and get fed with awesome local dishes! (just imagine being served lamb even for breakfast!)

Our rain-proof yurta

The only drawback was that the pastures were already turning yellow and springs are mostly dry in September, and nothing much left from those green hills and pastures. I bet that place will be gorgeous in the spring...

We spent 2 days mostly eating and hiking up on the high hills. As well sleeping in nomadic "yurta". The food was so heavy (even for me), that by lunch time we were still full from the breakfast. Well, that's what happens when you get nicely cooked lamb pieces for the breakfast!

Breakfast time

Inside the yurta

On our first day when we were exploring a small gorge with a stony road that led up to the top of the mountain through the gorge, we saw an old truck approaching us from behind. As we had no idea what to expect further up the gorge, we hitchhiked just for fun. The driver was the shepherd living somewhere up on the hill. He allowed us to climb to the back of the truck and that's what happened then;

Hitchhiking is fun in Kyrgyz mountains!

Then at some point we got off the truck and decided to climb a very steep hill. Only then we realized that we were not at all prepared for such a tough hiking. Vanessa wearing totally white stuff ended up being more earth colored by the end. Mine and Alex's bare legs got scratched endlessly by the bushes, and I was slipping on the grass with my sandals on! Not much water, neither hiking equipment... well, we needed an adventure and to digest heavy breakfast.

Climbing was accompanied by the army of grasshoppers

Once on the top, the scenery was beautiful. Autumn was taking its typical golden appearance throughout the hills and on Chui Valley that laid far close to the far horizon. And only the evergreen pine trees, typical for Kyrgyz mountains, kept some signs of the green view from the spring.

Almost on the top

The walk was much easier and pleasant on the top, the view is admirable. And that was not even one tenth of the beautiful scenery that my country offers. But still I enjoyed being partly a tourist, and partly a local guide.

Local guide

As there were quite a few horse farms in this area, you can see many horses on the hills pasturing around. Or you can notice some dust arising far on the top of the opposite hill. And if you look carefully, you can see the horseman herding his flock of horses and taking them back to the farm.

Horses were all around

We ended the trip just at the lunch time, but spent some time on the hill to avoid the early lunch. Because once the hosts saw us, they had the urge to prepare the table immediately :)

Alex sharing his first days impressions with his family in Barcelona

In the afternoon we were dead enough to just stay around and rest. We did some horse-riding, but the horse was a very boring and stubborn one. He barely moves around, and even if he moves after few tens of meters, he turns back to the initial spot. Probably horse immediately understood that we are not in the commanding position, and didn't obey. After 1-2 hours of quick short rides on it, we gave up. :)

Alex palying "cowboy"

The next day, we climbed up another hill that turned out to be as challenging as well.


In the afternoon, we spent good amount of time playing cards with Sergey and Petr. As we taught each other different games, I remembered the card games once we used to play crazily in Taiwan.


After spending 2 days in a fresh weather, high on the pastures and in a nomadic "yurta", we returned back to Bishkek. The entire idea of hosting the tourists in your own "yurtas" or small cottages made me think that even with this basic, but distinct infrastructure and on some remote place in the mountains (not necessarily near the main natural hot spots), one can get the interest of tourists easily. Because that's what interests the tourists more about Central Asia. Sleeoing in the yurta, riding the horses on the highlands or pastures, eating local nomadic food and drinking horse milk. Very simple and easy for the locals, but very interesting and attractive for the foreigners.

And the irony in all this trip was that how the Germans (even if they are my co-citizens) were selling my culture and nature to me, a Kyrgyz guy... that I am being a tourist in my own country.

The last morning in Bishkek was spent in Djalalabad chayhana for morning "shorpo" (lamb soup) and quick visit to the market Kiyal for some cheaper souvenirs. For Alex and Vanessa, it should have been something unusual. Especially them seeing the sales of US army and other military clothes being sold in the bazaar. Yet I didn't take them to the other parts of Osh bazaar, that would be the real surprise!

Morning"shorpo"

Vanessa buying some felt material in the bazaar

Afterwards, I saw them off to Almaty. Later on, I caught up with them in Almaty for our trip to Astana. Then they told me how they got stuck for a while in the border while entering to Kazakhstan. Usually it is crowded there and things like standing in a queue doesn't really exist on the border checkpoint.

See all photos here.
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"Unforgettable Moments in Kyrgyzstan"

Before noting down my own travel notes from my latest trip back to Kyrgyzstan (as well as Turkey and Kazakhstan), I'd like to share this great story of my Czech colleague who spent some time in the mountains in Kyrgyzstan this summer. It's always interesting to see your country from the eyes of the foreigner. And what a trip he had!!

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"Unforgettable Moments in Kyrgyzstan"
by Katerina D.

David Cemus isn"t someone who likes to talk about himself and it was only by chance that I found out about his recent trip to Kyrgyzstan.

Following his return, I sat down with David and asked him to share some of his impressions of this little-known, mountainous country.

David was born and raised in Prague and graduated from the Faculty of Civil Engineering at the Czech Technical University in Prague with an IT specialization. In 2006 David joined IT Services Europe in Prague as a graduate and then spent six months working at IT Services Americas in Scottsdale. He was later hired on a permanent contract as an ITS Process Change Management Coordinator.

David made his first trip to Central Asia in 2005, when he and some friends travelled through Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. Following that trip, David longed to return to Kyrgyzstan and complete the trek across the Southern Inylchek glacier that he and his friends had started on their first expedition.

At the end of July David, his girlfriend and three other friends flew to Almaty, Kazakhstan, via Kiev. From there they traveled to the Kyrgyz town of Karakol on the other side of a 4000-meter mountain range.

They travelled in a so-called “marshrutka”, or shared taxi, which departs only when its capacity (~15 people) is full. Though that can sometimes take hours, David’s group had to wait about a half an hour before continuing their journey.

The trip was certainly not a pleasant one; not only was the small bus full of people, the bulky backpacks and equipment carried by David and the rest of his team made it difficult for anyone to sit comfortably. David’s pack for example, weighed some 30 kilograms.

Roads up the mountain pass were practically non-existent. After exiting the marshrutka, the group climbed into a Russian Volga, whose driver opted for a death-defying route over the mountain pass.


David’s description of Kyrgyzstan also included the ubiquitous herds of horses and their herdsmen. In this remote country, almost everyone learns to ride in childhood. Kumis, a slightly alcoholic drink made from fermented mares’ milk, is another important part of life in Kyrgyzstan.

Arriving in Karakol, the third largest town in Kyrgyzstan, David and his friends found accommodation at Valentine’s, the owner of a travel agency who is passionate about Czech slivovitz and old motorbikes. The group had found out about Valentine from other Czech friends and made sure to bring him some motorbike magazines.

As foreigners staying in Kyrgyzstan for more than 72 hours, they all had to register with the Visa and Registration Department or OVIR. After two days of getting the necessary permits and buying supplies, the group left Karakol in an UAZ-469 jeep and after some six hours following an off-road trail, they finally reached the military base at Echkili-Tash (2800m) in the Tian Shan mountain range.

After making a climb to 3300 meters to acclimatize, the group returned to Echkili-Tash and bedded down for the night to rest ahead of a 60-kilometer trek to the base camp on the Southern Inylchek Glacier.

The group spent the next two days approaching glacier. That meant crossing the Tüz saddle (4010m) and making a steep descent to reach the foot of the glacier (2800 m). High elevation and a lack of potable water made for tough going, but the group was overjoyed at having finally reached the glacier.


Nevertheless, they still had to travel 38 kilometers to traverse the second largest glacier in the world before reaching the base camp. The group moved very slowly on rough terrain as ascending and descending the uneven, rock-covered glacier was extremely exhausting.
The Central Tian Shan mountain range is well known for its bad weather. Fortunately, David and his party enjoyed mostly sunny weather and temperatures of around 15 degrees Celsius. At night the temperature dropped to below freezing, but that is something to be expected on a glacier, even in late July.

Meals were prepared on a gas stove with use of water from the melting glacier. As the group got closer to base camp, the appearance of the glacier began to change. The seemingly ever-present rocks and stones began to give way to more and more ice. The group was well prepared and was outfitted with crampons. However, the ice-axes, harnesses, ropes and carabineers proved to be of little use and ultimately only added
unnecessary weight.

After five exhausting days, the group finally reached the base camp (4100 m). However, the uneven terrain and a lack of GPS coordinates made their ultimate destination difficult to find.

Nevertheless, the toil of the journey was soon forgotten. The base camp offered exquisite views of two 7000-meter peaks: Khan Tengri, a 7000-meter mountain that resembles the Matterhorn and Peak Pobedy, a difficult 7439-meter climb. Having accomplished their mission, David and his friends were now able enjoy the view as well as a well deserved beer.

The next day they boarded a helicopter that taxied them to Maida Adir military base from where they hitch-hiked back to Karakol. After two days of relaxation on the beaches of Lake Issyk Kul, they head off to the mountains again. This time their destination was Son Kul Lake (3000 m), which is surrounded by beautiful mountains and is known for its horseback riding.

David ended his trip with a hike in Ala Archa National Park near the capital Bishkek. There, he and his team reached the mountaineers’ camp at 3400 meters after a 1300-meter high ascent.

David’s fascination with this remote part of the world is clearly visible, as is his passion for mountains and untouched nature. The trek along the glacier and the beautiful views of Khan Tengri made for an unforgettable experience. David returned to Prague not only with a full beard and a few good stories, but also a deep admiration for this remote country and its warm-hearted people.

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Plane crash in Kyrgyzstan

Unfortunately, it happened. It's totally different feeling when it's happening in your home. Ironically, I wrote about insecureness of flying with Kyrgyzstan based airlines in my recent post. It was a flight from Moscow to Iran with a stop-over in Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan). Although the plane itself belonged to Itek Air (registered in Kyrgyzstan), it was rented by Iranian Asseman Airlines and was being operated by them. It happened in about 10 minutes right after the plane took off from International Manas Airport in Bishkek. So far they say that the reason was the failure in the ventilation systems of the plane, and due to the heat some systems of the plane failed. The plane returned back for an emergency landing but couldn't make it till the runway... The crash started the fire on the plane. Most of the passengers died, and only some of them survived.

The fact that all the Kyrgyzstan based airlines were banned to entering European airspace for past 2 years should reveal who should take the responsibility.

The photos of the tragedy can be seen here.
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Olympic dream

(photo by Reuters)

Kyrgyz sportsmen came for the Olympics with serious ambitions this time! Since the first day I am following each of our participant's performance live () and cheering them quietly behind my work desk. And I came up with my own way of showing my tribute to our sportsmen; each time they win a medal, I put my desk Kyrgyz flag high above my work cubicle. Colleagues passing by are wondering why, and with great pride I tell them that our sporstman won an Olympic medal just now...

Ruslan Tiumenbayev won first bronze medal yesterday in Greco-Roman wrestling, and today Kanatbek Begaliyev (in the photo) took it one step ahead and won silver one. Next is gold!

Alga, Kyrgyzstan!
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Fly Kyrgyz (?)

Definitely not now! That's what European Commission Transport suggests. And for some years all airlines operating from Kyrgyzstan have been banned to enter European airspace. It's kinda both economic and emotional blow for me; economic because now I need to fly with some transits to get home (also I used to enjoy the comparingly low prices of these airlines), and emotional because it is sad to see that our airlines are among those from Sierra Leone, North Korea, Swaziland, Guinea, Congo, etc. Not that I am looking down on these countries. (Photo source: www.turkcards.com)

Here are the banned Kyrgyz Republic based airlines (more than half of them don't have their own airplanes, but they rent them);

1 AIR MANAS
2 ARTIK AVIA
3 ASIA ALPHA AIRWAYS
4 AVIA TRAFFIC COMPANY
5 BISTAIR-FEZ BISHKEK
6 CLICK AIRWAYS
7 DAMES
8 EASTOK AVIA
9 ESEN AIR
10 GOLDEN RULE AIRLINES
11 ITEK AIR
12 KYRGYZ TRANS AVIA
13 KYRGYZSTAN
14 KYRGYZSTAN AIRLINES
15 MAX AVIA
16 OHS AVIA
17 S GROUP AVIATION
18 SKY GATE INTERNATIONAL AVIATION
19 SKY WAY AIR
20 TENIR AIRLINES
21 TRAST AERO
22 VALOR AIR

(source: Ferghana.Ru)

So yeah, no Fly Kyrgyz for now :(

Full list of EU banned airlines here.

(Photo source: Airliners.Net)

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TimesOnline: "The most beautiful country in the world"

Giles Whittell posted on the TimesOnline;

...Then onwards and upwards round numberless dirt hairpins to Son Kul, a perfect disc of water lying 10,000ft up in the legendary summer pasture of the Kyrgyz nomads. They still come here to pitch their yurts and graze their animals, but there's an extra yurt for us, with a felt-lined cot for the baby and placid, sleek brown horses tethered outside for the rest of us... (full article)

Thanks to Edil for sharing this article.
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Mountains of Kyrgyzstan

Great photos of Kyrgyzstan mountains scenery by Viktor Kleimenov. I found his gallery through Baisalov's blog.

For a slideshow, click here.
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Photos of the Day: Kyrgyzstan

Inside Kyrgyz yurta (nomadic tent). Kyrgyz women sitting in front of Dastorkon (tablecloth with food on it).

Santash Valley

Source: zigeunerin-kgz
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Kyrgyzstan - land of winter tourism. Now even safer!

We've got all the basic things you need to create one of the top winter tourism destinations in the world! Mountains hitting the sky with ever existing ice and snow peaks, as beautiful as Swiss Alps! Yet we lack of quality infrastructure for that.
On the other hand, now we've got Special Forces on skiis and snowboards protecting the security and peace on the mountains! :) Some has Marine Corps, we have Mountain Corps. Below is the video of Kyrgyz Special forces training on the mountains.

Moral of the story; so yeah, feel free and safe to come here. Someone is watching your back.



Click the link here if you can not see the video.
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Santa Claus is from Kyrgyzstan?!

Santa Clause (or "Ayaz Ata", as how we call him in Kyrgyz) is from Kyrgyzstan! Can you believe that?! Santa is my citizen :)

Well, according to Swedish consultancy firm Sweco, hehe, it is proven. You may read this news, laugh at it, and forget about it. But, hey, not our Tourism Agency! They see it as another opportunity to promote tourism in Kyrgyzstan now. Why not?! Kyrgyzstan's beautiful nature becomes even more gorgeous and fabulous in winter time, and tourists have all the rights not to bypass such a beautiful place!

Kyrgyzstan National Tourism Agency has already announced the competition "In which part of Kyrgyzstan does Santa Claus live?" to locate the symbolical residence place of Santa. What is more, it is planning to organize the Annual Santa Claus Assembly in Kyrgyzstan and invite Santa Clauses from other countries. And another interesting idea is that Santa Claus will make the ceremonial start from Kyrgyzstan. :) Agency is aware that they need to try hard in order to claim and promote it.

Shock revelation from Swedish consultancy firm: Santa Claus lives in Kyrgyzstan

(HELSINGIN SANOMAT) Santa Claus or Father Christmas lives in Kyrgyzstan, Central Asia, declares the Swedish engineering, environmental technology, and architecture consulting services firm Sweco. The claim was reported by the Swedish daily Dagens Nyheter in its Saturday issue under the headline: "Sorry, Finns".

Well, this is one news item that calls for delving into in greater depth. Anders Larsson of Sweco tells Helsingin Sanomat over the phone that the company has calculated, based on the earth’s topography and distribution of population, the location from which Santa Claus would have the easiest access to all the nice and deserving children in the world.

The end result did not surprise the Swedes. From the logistics point of view, the most beneficial location for Santa’s Grotto is in Kyrgyzstan, thousands of kilometres from Finnish Lapland.

Sweco presents an avalanche of facts to justify its shock discovery: Santa has to make it to 2.5 billion households in just one night.

For the delivery of gifts, Father Christmas can spare a massive 34 microseconds (millionths of a second) per home. And on the round-the-world delivery route Santa’s reindeer sleigh will travel at the modest speed of 5,800 kilometres per second.

Logistically speaking, all this would be easiest done from Kyrgyzstan. If Santa lived in Korvatunturi in Finnish Lapland - a place traditionally branded as the location of Santa’s Grotto for Finnish children – the presented figures would be significantly higher.

Unravelling the location of Santa’s home was not too difficult, Larsson boasts. "It took us half a day to produce the calculations."

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"Is Kyrgyzstan new threat to US?"

The answer is "Yes" according to some blind Bush follower Americans. :)

Probably most of you have seen this hilariously funny short movie "Americans are stupid". But there's another compiled version, and at the end of it they specifically ask Americans if Kyrgyzstan is the new threat for US as president Bush says. :) You could probably guess their reactions, LOL! Just watch it whole or skip to 8th minute to watch the part related to Kyrgyzstan;



Thanks Lukasz for the video link.
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Конфликт религиозного и светского образования

(www.ferghana.ru) Конфликт религиозного и светского образования на юге Киргизии - проблема, созданная искусственно
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Прочитал статью опубликованную на ferghana.ru, много раз до этого натыкался на подобные случаи в Турции. Подход Ж.Джоробаевой к делу нельзя назвать стратегически правильным и конструктивным, скорее всего резким. Согласен с автором, что её действия раздувают проблему, и даже приобретают опасный оборот тем, что она указывает на узбекскую общественность в Кыргызстане. При этом задевая меньшинство в многонациональной стране.

Вообще ношение тюрбана (платка) символично указывает на границу решительности человека (точнее женской половины), за которой стоит покорность Божьей воле. Для женщин это один из самых важных и приоритетных шагов в их покорности. Конечно не избежать в какой-то мере социального давления, ограничением себя от более свободной социальной жизни, быть замеченной в толпе и стать целью не очень дружеских взглядов. Все это реально в нашем обществе, которое ещё не достаточно зрелое в плане религиозности.

Но это личный выбор человека, главное чтобы он пошел на это осознанно. Другое дело, когда молодых и юных девушек заставляют одевать платки, то ли старшие в семье то ли их окружение, лично видел и такие примеры, в таких случаях платок долго не держится на голове.

Когда я учился в Турции, некоторые наши преподаватели тоже имели особую неприязнь к платкам, точнее тем кто их носил во время уроков. Вообще, Турция страна контрастов, там живут самые ярые фундаменталисты, а также враги Ислама. Так вот, один из преподавателей на первом же уроке попросил девушек с платками выйти из класса или же снять платок. Девушки вышли. Надо заметить, что в нашем университете невозможно было пройти уроки без участия. Потом девушки нашли решение и начали одевать длинные парики (которые так же закрывали нужные части головы и шеи) на эти уроки, что решило все проблемы. Подобная проблема очень актуальнa в Стамбульском Университете, там вообще запрещают вход в кампус девушкам в платках.

Теперь хороший пример - Сингапур. Она является светским государством, думаю всем известно что за продвинутая это страна. В этой стране 75% населения состовляют китайцы (буддисты в основном) и только 15% малайы (почти все мусульмане), а остальные индусы и европейцы. В первые её годы существования как незавиимая страна было очень много стычек между китайцами и малаями на нациналистической и религиозной почве. С самого начала руководство страны очень осторожно и тонко отнеслось к свободе религиозной жизни и практики всех этих наций, и учитывали этот фактор при принятии законов, планировке образовательных программ, и тп. В том числе и факт о ношении платков мусульманских девушек в школах. И платок тоже является необязательной(альтернативной) частью школьной формы с одинаковым светом и оттенками. Тоже самое насчет длинных юбок.

Более того, если расширить тему, в вышеуказанных странах свободно функционируют мечети и храмы под контролем государства и здесь же учат молодых и взрослых к религии. Такой вариант и предлагает декан факультета шариата в статье. Без контроля тоже нельзя оставлять, ведь очень много разных экстремистических и фундаменталистических движений и миссионеров, и как раз в таких безконтрольных мечетях могут создаватся ячейки подобных движений или распространение неправильных и неточных религиозных материалов. Не говоря уже о неправильной методике обучения религии которая может охладить детей и взрослых от этой же религии. Контроль может быть создан через государственный орган вроде муфтията. В Турции даже создан Министерство по Религиозным Делам (Диянет). И нужны компетентные кадры-теологи. Каждый год Турция и многие другие арабские страны предоставляют Министерстве Образования Кыргызстана специальный контингент для бюджетного обучения теологии в этих странах. И каждый год десятки наших студентов поступают и уже давно начали заканчивать эти программы. А вот эти кадры могли бы составить более созрелый подход к религиозным делам и учению чем местные “муллы”. Качество их знания знают все, я сам ходил к ним в детстве, и прежде чем рассказывать о Боге и понятии о вере, они заставляли нас учить арабский алфавит и учить наизусть молитвы и суры из Курана. Конечно без всякого обьяснения о чем они говорят. Конечно, сбежал после пару сессий.

Я согласен, что не надо объединять светское и религиозное образование. Они могут предоставлятся школьникам отдельно и параллельно. Опять пример из Турции; если так и хочется получить углубленное религиозное образование рядом с обычным, то у них есть специальные Имам Хатипские Школы где эти 2 образования преподаются вместе. А так мечети и отдельные медресе могут преподавать религиозное знание. Подобная система прозрачного религиозного образования в мечетях под контролем государственного органа и альтернативная школьная форма имеет более конструктивный и эффективный смысл чем слепая атака на ношения платков в школах. Иначе это всегда будет вызывать отрицательную реакцию со стороны верующей части нашего общества. А это итак составляет большинство.
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flashback at the revolutions

Film by Manon Loizeau "Etats-Unis : à la conquête de l'Est". (Found at Mirsulzhan's blog) Film about the "colorful revolutions" happened in Georgia, Serbia, Ukraine and Kyrgyzstan, and the driving forces behind it. Below is the version dubbed in Russian, there should be versions in other languages as well.


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my president is more "photogenic" than yours...

Let others talk;

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Picture of Kyrgyzstan President K.Bakiev (then opposition leader) just after the Tulip Revolution. Perfect pose in front of Statue of Freedom in Bishkek.

Picture of Kazakhstan President N.Nazarbaev. Perfectly positioned in front of Kazakhstan flag.

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BBC says - Nursultan Nazarbayev, who prides himself on leading the most advanced and democratic country in Central Asia, may have just become president for life.

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Wikipedia says - A photogenic subject (generally a person), is a subject that usually appears physically attractive or striking in photographs, regardless of their physical appearance in real life. A person described as being photogenic may not necessarily be particularly attractive in real life...

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"Война херня, главное стратегии"

Kyrgyz government set the Strategy of Development for 2007-2010 years. First thing that came to my mind is "why only for next 3 years?!... why such short-term or short-visioned strategy?!.... I will read about it this weekend, and let's see what our "competent" leaders prepared this time... I will update.
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Руководство Кыргызстана утвердило Стратегию развития страны на 2007-2010 годы.
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Winter festive holidays back in Kyrgyzstan

One of the best ever trips I have ever had (it is strange that I started to refer to "going back home" as a "trip", God!). Many reasons to rate it as special;

- I saw my nephew Nursi (1,5 yrs old) talking and calling me "Aka" (means both "Big brother" or "uncle" in our local Kyrgyz language). I spent great time playing with him, tickling him, asking him to kiss, making him dance, etc. New generation kids are far more smarter, I guess, because he can now play melodies on mobile phone, switch among them, use remote controller, put disc into DVD player, etc. One of the first words he learned to speak was "DVD"?!!!



- see all my family members as most of us have been in different places recently. Kylych arrived from Turkey, Nurgazy was also back at home. I was glad to see my parents more relaxed from those difficult times when they were trying and working hard to raise 5 children and some of us were studying at private schools, then university abroad. Now we already started to overtake these burdens from them. I truly value this in our society; mutual parent-child support.
















- I met my classmates some of whom I haven't seen for over 4 years. 1st of January evening we gathered in Adyl's place for reunion, also to celebrate New Year and Qurban Eid, as well as celebrate my birthday. All in one shot ;). Thanks for Sherali for hospitality, otherwise I'd get bored in the hotel in Bishkek.








- on the way, I had a 1 day stop-over in Istanbul. Good opportunity to see old friends from Ankara; Baktygul, Guliza, etc. It has been 3 years. We had great memories working together in Student Senate, many trips, then KVN and victories in Izmir and Bursa! I'd say they were part of my best days in university life. I took an opportunity and paid a visit to Blue Mosque and its magnifying atmosphere. Another view here.


- celebrated advance NY Eve with KG @ers in Elina's place. AIESEC in KG is still in the process of being shaped as it is trying hard to keep its members and grow at the same time. Despite the difficulties they are doing pretty good job.


- spend time with Ainura, celebrated each others birthdays and New Year's Eve together. Attended with her Deloitte's New Year party.












- 30th of December pleased us with a lot of sudden snow, just before the New Year's Eve. It has been 8 years since I celebrated this holiday there! 8 years!!!








- It is never easy to leave home after some short break, and even you had great time there then it is like leaving part of your soul back there. I left snowy, cold Kyrgyzstan, and I was expecting more or less similar weather in Prague. Well, above the clouds it is hard to tell, but when we started landing I saw green fields and trees, and slightly rainy, warm weather in Prague. It was as if changing the climates again...

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iTravel videos

I recently got time and uploaded the videos I took time to time and kept in my hard drive (even though it took time and cost me some time of starvation), so here in one post I present them all.

Singapore videos;

DHL Mafia at Karaoke

2005 New Year morning on the beach at East Coast, Singapore

Mafia Karaoke, singing "Copa Cabana"

Mafia Karaoke, singing "Just like a prayer"

Mafia Karaoke, singing "Love is all around"

Mafia Karaoke, singing "Hero"

Tropical rain in New Year

MacRitchie reservoir

Glance at Lau Pa Sat, our popular outdoor dining place in Singapore. Excellent food! Also, see how Teh Tarik (pulled tea) is prepared (while Tong is watching)!!! I missed this place!

Merlion of Singapore, Singapore river, Esplanade theaters, Fullerton hotel, one of the nicest corners in Lion City.

Parkview Square in Bugis (Singapore)

Siloso beach, Sentosa

Monkeys at Bukit Timah, Singapore

Chinese Garden, Singapore

View from the Pogoda in Chinese Garden. Zoomed is Mayfair condominiums where I lived in Singapore.

Feeding the birds with fish at Jurong Bird Park, Singapore

Sanjay and Hannele on fire at Annual DHL Dinner&Dance in Singapore (2004).

Performance by Ceci and Michal :)).

Another view from DHL Dinner&Dance. Sanjay rushing towards girls :)).

At Astoria. Tee wants "dramatic collapse", Gitti saying "ye ye ye", Michal and Krishna burning the kitchen, Nacho trying had not to lose... old good days!
I won that game by the way, je je :)).


Malaysia videos;

Petronas towers, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

View from TV tower, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia


Taiwan videos;

AIESEC Taiwan MCP elections result, 2006

Yang Ming Shan, Mt.Cising Main Peak (1120 m), Taipei/ Taiwan.

Lover's bridge, Danshui, Taipei

How fried ice cream is prepared. At Danshui, Taipei (Taiwan).

AIESEC trainees of Taipei singing Xmas carols in front of SOGO, Taipei

AIESEC trainees of Taipei singing Xmas carols 2

2006 New Year Celebs Fireworks at Taipei101

Farewell speech, Taiwan

Taiwanese KTV with co-workers from Datatronics

Lantern festival at Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall in Taipei (Taiwan)

Kyrgyzstan videos;

Nursi (my nephew)

Klasstashtar (classmates from high-school)

Dance #1 (Deloitte Bishkek NY 2007 Party)

Dance #2 (Deloitte Bishkek NY 2007 Party)

Dance #3 (Deloitte Bishkek NY 2007 Party)

Dance #4 (Deloitte Bishkek NY 2007 Party)

Dance #5 (Deloitte Bishkek NY 2007 Party)

Dance #6 (Deloitte Bishkek NY 2007 Party)

Kyrgyz Hymn Clip (I caught from TV)


Turkey videos (from my recent stay in Istanbul);

Inside the Blue Mosque

Ayasofya (St.Sophia) and Blue Mosque, Istanbul
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Kyrgyzstan to be Kyrgyzstan

I think people noticed about recent events in Kyrgyzstan. Being away from the place, and just getting feedback based on the letters of friends, some kyrgyz blogs, forums and news portals, here's my feedback of it. What the western media publishes sometimes is just bullshit, so here's one Kyrgyz's opinion;

I'm neither good politics analyst, neither a big follower of politics. That's to start with.
After "revolution", one thing people of Kyrgyzstan hoped was the progress in economical and social development. Once accepted as "heaven of democracy" in Central Asia (and it truly was comparing to other more less dictatoristic regimes in neighbouring countries), but later it turned more into the country ruled by the president and his family and the "partners in crime". Problems like lack of jobs, lack of foreign investment, corruption, etc. wasn't solved and even got worse. Ex-president tried to tighten his power by bringing to power all his connections, this made people more worried and turned away from him. One big mistake was the accident in Aksy where few demonstrators were shot with the order by Karypkulov, another Akaev's man.
And the last drop was when his daughter and son (who was already taking under control the buisness sectors in the country using "various" methods, thus having a bad reputation among people) were "elected" into Parliament. Also there were many complaints about the other falcification of elections. That pulled the trigger and demonstrations, meetings and riots against Akaev's regime started in every region of the country. It ended up all people moving to capital to Bishkek to protest Akaev. Everything was lead by opposition. Of course, opposition got united and lead people to it from the very beginning. Opposition yet included many ex-pro-Akaev people who changed the side due to some misagreement between them. Well, to make it short, Kyrgyz nation united got Akaev leave his post and "revolution" happened. Good thing was that not even a single shot was made against people, demonstrators. Even all police forces joined
protesters to protest this regime. That was big event in the history of our country, and was to be the dream for the new fresh start of progress. Well, there are many possible things that were said and written like "western support" to overturn this post-Soviet not fully democrticized regime through NGOs, mass-media and financially. Maybe it is true, sounds likely.
What went terrible is that night many robberies happened in many shops and offices of Bishkek because that day all police forces joined the demonstrators or just changed their uniforms in order to avoid to be beaten up by the crowd. Basicly, there was no police forces in the town that night. Very handy situation for organized crime units. And most of the protesters came from different part of the country. So what happened is that people saw shops being robbed and decided to use this opportunity as well. So many shops were emptied. New government was not ready to stop this. But the next day and night, already police forces were re-called, people and buisnessman formed their security units and stopped further robberies.
Another truth is that many of the protesters from regions and villages were just "hired" or sponsored by the opposition to come and protest, nothing much of thought of fighting for their rights. At night, most of them were still in Bishkek, and that was a potential danger already.
It happened, we did overturn old rotten regime. We were proud! we re-elected new president - Kurmanbek Bakiev (leader of trimphant opposition), yet there was another potential candidate, ex-General "iron" Felix Kulov. He was freed from the prison by demonstrators during the protests, and he was put there before by Akaev. Another important point is that since old times Kyrgyz nation has been divided into 2 ethnic groups - Arkalyk and Ichkilik, or we also say as "southerns" and "northerns". Unfortunately, it still exists for many people (not for me), and usually they don't have big sympathy towards each other, again I will say, unfortunately! So Bakiev is from "south", Kulov is from "north", there was a potential case of danger of people dividing into two to vote for the new president as each side preferred the one from their "region". And both of them lead opposition towards the revolution. Situation was already critical, and we didn't need another crisis. They resolved it by forming a "tandem", Bakiev became president, and Kulov became prime-minister with some power given to him. Well, new government decided to keep current Parliament, although the protests mainly arised after the falcification of Parliament elections and the opposition was promising to make the elections again. The promise to distribute power between the president, prime-minister and parliament didn't happened as well. New government made many promises starting from above mentioned things to solving corruption, crime rate, etc etc. There were many unhappy reactions from people saying that only "head" of the old regime is changed, the rest is same, same old people in different administrative units. I think it was mistake of new government, so the revolution was not much completed. Was it really a revolution? I doubt as well.

Yet, it was new beginning...

Now back to today's situation. Only 1,5 years past since those events. There was some noticeable improvement in many areas. Yet nothing much, but 1,5 years is also short to expect big changes. Problems like corruption couldn't be solved, problems related to new passport took longer to solve. Yet the new oppostition decided that Bakiev's time is up and he was not the competent president to bring Kyrgyzstan to better days. They raised some issues like changes in constitution and distribution of power and gave deadline to the government till November.
Once nothing much happened, they formed "For reforms!" protest campaign, brought big protesters crowd (I believe there are many real supporters as well as "contractors" among these people) in front of Ak-Uy (our White House), and started protests forcing the president to accomplish the points/changes they requested. It was to be peaceful protest. Yet there were many mouth-attacks against new government and the campaign "for reforms" turned into the campaign "for resigning of the current Government". Basicly speaking, fight for the power again! There was danger that campaign leaders (opposition) would lose control over the crowd who could do another attack on White House. But something unexpected happened. Instead of the past case, many people, mostly southerns, arised to support current Government and anti-meetings started to emerge in many places, then they also moved to the capital. It ended up with 2 big crowd simpy protesting the other side and supporting their side. It was even about to turn into civil clash which could take it to even a Civil war. This possible was the move by the Government to activate their supporters to rise to support them, also the fact that Bakiev was from south of the country simply played important part for southern people to support him.

But, fortunately, facing this danger, both sides tried to come to compromise with some changes in Constitution and finish these meetings to avoid any serious clashes. There were some small clashes (throwing stones, bottles), but police forces acted quickly using gas to separate them, nothing serious happened. As a result, it ended up by both sides being not fully satisfied. The current government secured its place. Main thing was that e moved towards the President+Government form, the power being separated between these organs. Personally I am glad with this form as well. It makes us different from other Central Asian neighbors where it is more dictatorial regimes exist.

Another good point is that our nation learned to pressure the Government and to fight for the rights they want. Bad thing is that, protesting in front of the White House quickly becoming a habit for us, any unhappy parliament member can hire some "contractor-protesters" and his people to come and protest in front of the White House. The street-revolution is having the "domino-effect".

Our people are tired of protests, meetings, and crisis. We had them enough. Now we want more peace, more progress and changes. We want stability, we want foreign investment, we want the better future. I don't know if to be happy with all these things. I hope that these waves at the beginning will shape tomorrow's better Kyrgyzstan, as a better-ruled, democratic, competitive in the region and continent, politically stable country. I hope these are the pains of the mother giving a birth to a new child. I hope this is the winter before the spring.

I don't have too much hope in today's leaders that they will provide us bright future. But I am hopeful that they can solve current biggest problems like corruption and instability. So that new generation who grew up with the heavy-weight of all these problems, will have a chance to make big changes.

I will do my part.
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shots from KG

Rider in Ala-Archa


Sanjar got married.


Inna, model, pretty girl from Bishkek.


Ala-Archa view


Ainura n yours truly


Eagle's nest in Abshyr-Ata


Abshur-Ata waterfall


Ainura, Yssyk-Kol lake (Me and Ainura spent 1 week there). Thanks for Anarbek's family for nice hospitality.


Roxana back from Seoul, long-awaited meeting.


Talay got married.


Shot from Sanjar's wedding. Ready to go!


Manas


Shashlyk - to be missed!


concert hall, Bishkek
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picnic in Ala-Archa

Some shots from our picnic of Kg-Ordo online community members. The place is called Ala-Archa, one of the beautiful spots nearby Bishkek.

Ala-Archa view


Another view


Ordo people


Playing "Beat those in the middle"


Daniyar and me


Aliya and Co


Plov (yellow rice) getting ready


Bakyt preparing "shashlyk"...


...and Aibek eating them :p


sudden fog


Ainura and me


Stones, left after rains


Ordo people exploring stones


Ainura


Regina and Ainura


looking for a place to settle


Bazarbay and Sanjar, full n happy after meal with glasses of hot tea


Plov is ready!


lost in the woods?


???

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highschool classmates

One of my highschool classmates got married recently, and we gathered in a cafe to re-celebrate it. IT has been long time since I sit with them, even in some way I still feel like a stranger among them. Outcomes of being away. Shots taken from that evening;


Ulan, me, Azat, Sherali, Akjol.


2 at the right; Adyl and his wife.


Me and Ainura (No, I haven't married yet! :) )


Dudes dancing.
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Nurseyit

My nephew - Nurseyit, already 1 years old. I took following 4 shots in 30 seconds. See the change in his mood!


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"ordoshka" in Bishkek

finally I got to meet some of the members of our online community KG-Ordo in real life. It was an "ordoshka" (name given to gatherings by this community members) organized in some way to welcome my arrival to Bishkek. It was a very warm welcome, and all of them are interesing and unique in personalities as I was expecting. Next one is a picnic on May, 9th.
Announcement: for all Kyrgyzstani readers of this article, do check this online forum of all Kyrgyzstani people (youth) around the world.
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concert "songs of Elles"

Elles - probably the most popular band in Kyrgyz music world, they used to be, after the death of one of their members, they fell apart. But their songs are still popular among people, and there was a concert of famous Kyrgyz singers (Aktan Isabaev, Adil Chekilov, Insan, Shantel, Maksat, Aziza, etc.) singing songs of Elles.

I went there with Ainura, Elina (AIESEC in Kyrgyzstan MCP), Shavkat (AIESEC in KG member), Sabrina (AIESEC Switzerland alumni, currently working for UN in Bishkek, I also met her there) and her friend Raul.



Aktan Isabaev, "Kaydasyn".


Aslan Isabaev, "Esimde".
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i dreamt of Asia

when I look out of window, I can see mountains with snow, green hills, green trees, cloudy sky, I feel fresh spring weather, typical April in Kyrgyzstan. Finally after so many years, I saw the apricot and apple trees opening the white flowers, truly fantastic view during spring time here, turning the trees into complete white. I feel cold evenings, I remembered the taste of hot tea in these evenings. I see my own people, simple and hardworking, trying to stand still in these difficult years of our nation.
I can't see tropical trees, palms, ocean anymore, I can't feel that hot and humid tropical weather, I can't see chinese, indians, malays outside. I can't see stylish taiwanese girls in the streets. I can't see chinese letters on the shops, in the streets, I can't hear "guoning guoning" greetings that I used to hear at 7-11s. I can't see those friends that I used to see, or reach by just one phone call.
once I get used to my home, this seems like a dream about South East Asia. I love Asia, and as Christina says, "Asia rocks!".
I'm pulling my Bangkok days. It is close to Taiwan, it is close to Singapore.
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reverse culture shocks

- wherever I order something from our national cuisine in cafes or restaurants, the portions seem so small, I would say only half of my expectations.

- to pay for internet usage time and for each megabyte of internet traffic separately! I think only we have this kind of system; to pay for internet traffic!

- I forgot to negotiate the price saying ok for the initial asked price.

- so many "marshrutkas" (small mini buses) as a most common public transportation.

- cheap prices! (until you start to run out of money)

- so many pretty girls. it seems I forgot how kyrgyz girls look like.

to be continued...
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"The stranger" among own people

It has been a long time since the last entry, seems still some people are visiting this site as number of visitors are over 100 000. I am in Kyrgyzstan, already for more than a month. Initially i felt like a stranger everywhere, in Bishkek, at my own hometown. But quickly I managed to get used to food (after some stomachaches), to weather (after some freezing, snow, and lip chaps).No more sunny wet (sub)tropical weather, but cold dry climate. I was freezing all the way home where cross country highway passes over the high peaks of mountains... strangely this time I didn't feel that excitement of being back home, I know I missed home, Kyrgyzstan, Kyrgyz people, but I met them with no extra excitement as if asking myself "so what...?!". It is not the best thing for the patriot as me, being away from home for too many years is turning me into more like a "world citizen" rather that Kyrgyz citizen. It was a really long, adventurous, tiring journey back home with many stressful and funny things happening on the way. Anyway, this is what happened in chronological order :) ;

- In Taiwan. End of February. Farewell party. Thanks for all people who came, for all gifts and nice wishes, it was nice to see them before my departure.

- Last day at work. Goodbye to Datatronics.

- I moved to Ilter's place. There were too many things to move, and I managed to forget my leather bag with some important documents in it, damn!

- wNCF OC team celebration parties. First, KTV Karaoke night, then party till the morning in the hotel room playing cards and some other games. I was somehow setup to lose in cards games, and asked to kiss girls as a punishment (well it's open to discussion!). By the way, I hope photos will not be published!

- The day of departure. It was official holiday. Thanks to Murphy's stupid law, my ATM card's usage limit was full (read prev. posts about this ATM card issue in Huanan Bank) when I wanted to withdraw all my money. Can you imagine this?! You have a plane after few hours, your ATM card is blocked, banks are closed coz it is national holiday, and most of your money is there. Also I was not sure if I would be able to withdraw this money from other countries as I lost my trust and confidence to Huanan bank. I was mad, Elmo trying to calm me down. How could this happen on my last day here?! Besides, I lost some my documents including my graduation diploma(!) in a taxi few days ago. We reported police radio stations. I decided to leave card to Ilter who would transfer money to me later. But the call from Diego (or I called him?) solved this problem, he told me that it can be solved without going to bank by just taking electronic wallet to ATM and transferring data record to this wallet. Bingo! I got my money on the next ATM. Huge relief!!! Also Fyodor decided to buy camera for his brother on the last day, so he was waiting and looking for us at the bus stop. Ilter, Jazzie, Elmo came with me till the airport. I still had some time, so we were at Burger King (tradition when someone from AIESEC is coming to or leaving Taiwan) for last burgers. Sean and Winnie also came. Time was flying, and it was only 15 minutes left to flight time when I checked my watch... We ran till the customs, I said goodbye to each of them, ran through the corridors of the airport, at each corner airport staff asking if I am the one to fly to Singapore, and when I reached the gates, stewardesses greeted me smiling: "finally here's the last one, ok, let's close the doors now.", it seems whole plane was waiting for yours truly. It's very annoying when whole passengers are staring at you when you are trying to reach the back end of the plane with 2 big bags and that you were the one who kept the plane for few minutes waiting. So I didn't miss the plane, keep it, Murphy!

- I spent 5 days in Singapore meeting up with old friends, eating the food I missed, visiting the places I love, and just sitting and enjoying the sound of water near its Majesty - Merlion. Thanks to Gitti, Shweta and Lars for hosting me there.
There I also met Anya, AIESECer from Kazakhstan.


- Then I spent 1 whole day in Kuala Lumpur. I bought my plane ticket, then visited Petronas Towers, Batu Caves, and street markets.

- Finally the day came, flight to Kyrgyzstan. It was 7 hour flight till Tashkent, then I changed my plane there, and another 2 hour flight to Bishkek. And there comes the first shock! Our militia (police). Check one previous post. Those people who were supposed to meet me in the airport didn't turn up. Instead I was greeted by our militia.

- 1 week in Bishkek. Staying in my friends' place for few days, then in Fyodor's place for few more days. I met old friends from Turkey and from the high school, met new friends, Fyodor's brother, etc. But most of the time I was with Ainura, she was my guide to explore Bishkek as I really knew a little about my own capital city.



She's one pretty and amazing girl! Another thing is that I met initiative group of AIESEC in Kyrgyzstan. Elina and Zemfira are the ones who have been to IPM in Holland recently. I joined their mini-conference, and it is truly unbelievable feeling to see AIESEC atmosphere and people here.


- Trip from Bishkek to hometown was also adventurous. I decided to take a car drive rather than plane, also was planning to take some photos on the way. But due to delays we moved in late afternoon, and it was dark night when we reached high mountains with tons of snow and icy roads. On a very icy road at a very dangerous place of Ala-Bel pass, our car suddenly stopped and it just didn't start again. We had to get out of car and push it. Temperature was far below zero, and for a person who hasn't experienced this cold for 2 years and who didn't have proper winter wear, that was freezing half an hour. Then we managed to start it and just after few kilometers, on the same icy road our car made sudden 180 degree turn, and it almost get out of the road but luckily it stopped. Otherwise we would crash into 1 meter tall snow barriers or even worse we could roll down the mountains.

- Finally I was at home.

My little sister is really grown up and finishing high school this year. I already promoted AIESEC to her, and she is willing to join it. I am sure that both will benefit as she is very dynamic, active and smart girl, a leader.There I met my nephew, Nurseyit, already 1 year old. Sweetest thing in the world.


- On the day of Nooruz, I went to Osh where I spent my high school years. I visited our lycee, met some of old teachers there. Later that day I met Aijamal, I met her in our online community KG-Ordo. She was indeed gorgeous and beautiful, and easy to talk to. Together we climbed Sulaiman Mountain, last time I climbed it 5 years ago. There's a wide view of Osh city from top of it. Coz it was Nooruz holiday, which is accepted as a New Year holiday among Turkic and Persian nations, the place was very crowded.


- Finally I learned how to drive a car, it is simple, just my legs need to get used to control pedals and my hands to control the gears.

- Also we prepared famous food "sumelek" made only during Nooruz in early spring. It is very traditional food, smth like a jam, made from wheat, nuts, some sort of grass, and also small stones are added to break all those ingredients, and it is cooked till the morning by continuously mixing it without any break. It is organized by families in the neighborhood every year, and it was our turn this year. It has special taste and delicious. If you plan to come to Central Asia in early spring time, then you should definitely ask for people for "sumelek". (Note; I still have some in my fridge ;)).

- Elmo and Ilter informed me that my lost bag was found with everything inside! Another huge relief. The taxi driver noticed it only after weeks ago, only when he decided to clean up his cab's baggage cabin.

- I met Aijamal, the one who had been very important for me for long time and currently married and has a daughter. It was our first meeting after 5 years.

- After 3 week holiday at home, I really got bored from just sleeping-eating-doing-nothing. But it was very relaxing break after busy days of work. I decided to return back to Bishkek as I had many things to do there.

- I learned that my job in Bangkok is delayed for 2 more months. It was unexpected and got me annoyed at the beginning, but I was even glad later that finally it gave me some time to spend in Kyrgyzstan after so many years. Now it was right moment to get to know current situation here, to get to know more contacts, to find old friends, to study and to work on own projects.- Now I am back in Bishkek for a week already. I joined it conference in Ataturk-Alatoo university, already caught up with many old friends. Yesterday we celebrated our friend Adyl's marriage.

- Soon I am planning to connect to internet from home. This will give me more access to web (which is like a food for me, irreplaceable need), thus more entries, and of coz pictures!


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greetings from Kyrgyzstan!

Finally, I am back at home after 1-week long trip in Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, I am back in Kyrgyzstan. Currently I am in Bishkek, trying to get used to my own country, feeling like a foreigner here. First shock happened at the airport when our own police stopped me and asked me to get into their office for baggage check. Normally it is normal thing that may happen, but unfortunately, their intention was more to get something from me rather than doing their job. As they couldn't find anything wrong, they had to let me at the end, asked some money for "tea", but I denied to give any penny. These kind of sick police n authorities are the worms that are really eating our society from deep inside...

Yet past few days have been quite fun. I met old friends, new friends, and spent some nice time. Once again I understood that Kyrgyz girls are one of the prettiest in Asia.

Anyway I gotta go now, invited for a dinner by Ainura, let's check her cooking capabilities.
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It is a bit strange feeling, but I am an uncle now, my older brother Altyn has a son!!!!! He got married 4 years ago (attached is his photo and wife Venera, and me 2nd from right), and his son is the 1st grandchild for my parents! Such a different feeling, at the same time makes me feel older. I look forward to getting his photo asap. Now, I am officially Uncle Aibek.
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Abshyr Ata (Kyrgyzstan)

Abshyr-Ata resort and waterfall. This place 1-hour ride from our town, it's called Abshyr. I have been there many times and twice for pioneer camps. Atmosphere is great, and full of mysteries. Main attraction is the huge waterfall on the flat surface of mountain, water coming out from the cave. Another attraction was the huge eagle nest (not sure, if it is still there) and the cave with small hole leading to a inside the mountain, many people says this way takes one to Mecca (but that's just a myth).
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Kyrgyz Cuisine

Very briefly; Meat, milk, vegetables, fruit, and pastries are the traditional products used in Kyrgyz cookery. Here are the most popular dishes;

The favorite drink is kymyz (#8). Kymyz is made from fresh mare's milk which is poured into a special leather bag - and is then stirred with a special wooden stick which is called "bishkek". The name of this stick is given to the current capital of the Republic.
Nan or Lepyoshka(#1) is flat round bread. Yeast dough done in 'tandyr' that is a clay oven. As it is very hot inside of the oven the cook should be quick in sticking dough and taking out breads. Samsa (#1) is a triangle or circular pocket with meat, onion and the fat of lamb's tail. Samsa is often served straight from the tandyr and eaten with hands. Borsok (#2) is squares or balls of dough fried in oil. Could be served with tea or broth.
Beshbarmak (#6) is meat chopped and fixed with soft noodles. A fatty broth boiled with chopped onion is poured over the mixture. Could be seasoned with greens. The dish can be eaten with a fork. Yet in old times people ate it with hands, this is how its name came "besh" - five, "barmak"- finger.
Shorpo is a hot oily broth with chunks of meat, potatoes and carrots. It is could be seasoned with greens and is served in individual bowls and eaten with a spoon. Large chunks of meat on the bones can be eaten with hands.
Plov (ash) (#7) is fried meat, onion, garlic and spices, then boiled with rice and stewed. Usually plov comes in a big plate and each person helps himself putting it on individual plate. Plov can be eaten by fork or spoon. Plov is the main dish served in the south part of the country.
Lagman (#4) is a rich spicy stew with chopped meat, vegetables and spices, poured over long hand-made noodles. The noodles can be eaten with a fork and the gravy with a spoon. Lagman is served in individual bowls.
Manty (#3) is meat, onion and chopped fat of lamb's tail covered in dough and steamed. Manty is usually served on individual plates (3-5 pieces) and could be dressed with sour cream.
Chuchvara (#5) is meat dumplings of minced meat, onion and spices in dough. It is boiled in a broth with some meat and potatoes. It is served hot in bowls and eaten with a spoon. Sour cream can be served as a dressing.

Drinks
Airan (in Kyrgyz) resembles yogurt. Bozo is a Kyrgyz wheat and millet-fermented drink with a slight alcoholic punch. Kymyz (kumis, kimis) (#8) is fermented mare's milk and is an acquired taste. Maksym is a thick wheat-based drink that Kyrgyz like to drink in the summer. Shoro (#9) is a brand name of maksym.
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What does Bishkek mean?

Some of my friends were asking me the meaning of the name of my capital city - Bishkek. Here's an info for you;
In Kyrgyz, word Bishkek means a churn used to make fermented mare's milk - kymyz, the Kyrgyz national drink. Bishkek is a city of wide boulevards and marble public buildings combined with Soviet-style apartment blocks and other buildings. It is laid out on a checkerboard pattern, with most streets flanked on both sides by narrow irrigation channels that water the innumerable trees providing shade in the hot summers and a generally beautifying effect to the city's otherwise rather drab appearance.
Originally a caravan rest stop on one of the branches of the Silk Road through the Tien Shan range, the location was fortified in 1825 by the khan of Kokand Empire with a mud fort. In 1862, the fort was conquered and razed when Tzarist Russia occupied and annexed the area. The site became a Russian garrison and was redeveloped and named Pishpek from 1877 onward by the Russian government, which encouraged the settlement of Russian peasants by giving them fertile black soil farms to develop. In 1926, the city became the capital of the newly established Kyrgyz ASSR and was renamed Frunze after Mikhail Frunze, Lenin's close associate who was born in Bishkek and played key roles during 1905 and 1917 and during the Russian Civil war of the early 1920s.
Following the collapse of Soviet Union, Kyrgyzstan achieved independence in 1991, and the city was renamed Bishkek.
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Traveling to Kyrgyzstan

Can You Say Kyrgyzstan?
Key-ear-geese-tan! That's how you pronounce it.
Some of my friends were really interested in visiting Kyrgyzstan, its beautiful nature, rich history, the Silk Road, taste some food and drink Kymyz (mare's fermented milk). Here's the web-site of the tour company which offers tour packages; Novinomad. Also you can check Horizon Travel. Also, having a lot of mountains (one of the highest in Asia), there's also great adventures for climbing and trekking lovers. Here's a link I found out about some tour packages for mountatin climbing and touring in Kyrgyzstan. Of course, if you are interested then Google can help a lot too. But if you don't want to search and collect info, then books are the best guides, there is one I know; Rowan Stewart, Susie Weldon. Kyrgyzstan. The Kyrgyz Republic: Heartland of Central Asia.
For those, who really wants to travel there someday, I can give one important advice is not to travel alone, either with tour guides or friends from Kyrgyzstan. If more interested, feel free to contact me (aibek_dunaev@yahoo.com).
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the night after revolution...

it was the moment to act for criminals, black-minded people or simply some poor hungry people... in my capital Bishkek, many groups of them (especially youngsters/adults and those who came from countryside) started to robb company offices, supermarkets, stores, cars, etc. and vandalize. many buisness sectors suffered... And no police forces around (after the huge protest by people, many of them were demoralized and didn't appear at all)... New government immediately acted in warning with "the real fight" against those who are commiting crimes in the city... so sad that due to those few criminals, our revolution is shadowed and it is bringing negative image to our people... hope that new government will control it soon...
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Tulip revolution

...hope it brings new life and better future for Kyrgyzstan...
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Kyrgyzstan Ak-Uy (White House) is taken

BISHKEK (Reuters) - Kyrgyzstan's opposition declared itself in power on Thursday after seizing key buildings as veteran president Askar Akayev vanished from view following days of violent protests.
In an emergency meeting, parliament installed opposition leaders as acting president and prime minister and gave them until Friday to present a new government for the Central Asian country.
Thursday's protests were a culmination of days of demonstrations against what the opposition say were rigged parliamentary elections and years of poverty and corruption.
Security forces at first repelled protesters trying to enter the heavily defended White House -- the seat of government -- but then withdrew, allowing thousands to stream into the building and take control.
One protester could be seen waving a flag from the second floor of the White House. Above, another protester tossed documents out to the cheering crowd of thousands below. The square nearby was splattered with blood.
"This is a popular revolution and the power is in the hands of the people, we don't fear anyone any more," said Askat Dukenbayev, a professor from the local American University.
More than 70 people were reported injured in clashes with pro-Akayev supporters in Bishkek, a city of 800,000.
The United States called for calm and for fresh elections to be held.
Rumors flew that Akayev had fled the mountainous country, which appears likely to become the third former Soviet state in two years to see its entrenched leadership fall to popular protest after disputed elections, following Ukraine and Georgia.
Prime Minister Nikolai Tanayev tendered his resignation, an opposition spokesman said.
Most of Kyrgyzstan's opposition leaders are former political allies of Akayev who fell out with him for one reason or another.
Parliament appointed the head of the opposition coordinating committee, Kurmanbek Bakiev, as acting prime minister and gave him until 0500 GMT on Friday to come up with candidates for ministerial positions.
Supreme court head Kurmanbek Osmonov was quoted by Russia's Itar-Tass news agency as saying the court had annulled an electoral commission decision validating the parliamentary polls. The ruling opens up the possibility of fresh elections.
Felix Kulov -- one opposition leader freed from jail on Thursday by protesters -- denied media reports that quoted him saying Akayev had resigned after 14 years in office.
Kulov, 55, a former police chief and once head of the secret services, failed in a bid to become president in elections in 2000. He was appointed interior minister on Thursday.
Acting president Ishenbai Kadyrbekov -- a former construction minister -- had been disqualified from running in the disputed parliamentary election, which international observers had also declared to be flawed.
LOOTING IN BISHKEK
With no police on the streets of Bishkek, looters, mainly young men, ransacked department stores and casinos, emptied jewelers' shops and made off with cars. Thick smoke filled the night air after mobs torched stores.
"There are no police anywhere in the city," an emergency services spokesman said.
Parliament gave Kulov special powers to clamp down on the lawlessness in Bishkek.
"We will establish order. We will not allow looting. We will hold our own elections to start our rule," said Bakiev, who was prime minister from 2001 to 2002.
Kyrgyzstan, a mainly Muslim country of 5 million bordering China, lies in an energy-rich region where Washington and Moscow vie for influence. Each has a military base outside Bishkek.
Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice said Washington wanted to see stability to allow fresh elections to be held.
"There is no place for violence in a process of this kind," she told reporters in Washington. "The Kyrgyz people have a desire and an aspiration for freedom and democracy, as do people around the world."
The unrest is certain to unnerve the autocratic, mostly pro-Moscow leaders in the rest of ex-Soviet Central Asia, compared to whom Akayev was relatively liberal.
There was speculation Akayev might have flown to neighboring Kazakhstan or had sought sanctuary in a Russian airbase outside the capital.
The opposition had taken control earlier this week of Osh and Jalal-Aba -- two key towns in Kyrgyzstan's poorer south, scene of bloody ethnic conflict in the dying days of the Soviet Union, where resentment is strong against the richer north.
(www.reuters.com)
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Revolution time

Fight for own rights... Protest against unfair elections... Protest against long-term Akaev rule... Fight against rise of dictatorism... Awakening of young nation after post-soviet era... People looking for and struggling for better future... People looking for a change...
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Fight against dictators or dictator-wanna-bes.

Situation in my country is getting more and more serious. Whole nation is ready to fight against regime of Akaev family. He's the one responsible for where we are today, for every single problem we have today. As the latest news say, south part including 2 major cities of country is taken by "forces of nation" led by opposition leaders, there was a big protest in capital city in front of Ak Uy (White House), many protesting people were arrested and released later, many people injured, few attempts by government's provocators, and it is very sad to read that 3 people lost their lives. We do hope that this will end without any further such accidents, and finally Akaev will give in if he had left at least piece of humanity inside. He should understand that "We don't want him anymore!". This time it looks like nation will go till the end, an I am sure that, soon or later this "colorful" revolution will occur. More worrying thing is the interference of 3rd parties, especially separatist terror organizations who really want to control Kyrgyzstan for drug traffic. Also it is important which sides will take USA and Russia, the latter itself has a lot of problem and still hasn't decided his side. In these kind of situations, normal people are the ones who suffer mostly. And that's what makes me worry mostly. We neither want bloody revolution, nor dictatorial regime. We want to be back "the heaven of democracy".
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Is it really time for colorful revolution?

After parliament elections held in February and March in Kyrgyzstan, mass protests are rising in the address of government and president A.Akaev. 2 big city administration buildings are taken by people, police forces are joining protesting nation which is led by opposition leaders. Nation is fed up of rule of Akaev family (especially his son has very negative reputation, but surprisingly was elected for parliament recently. And Akaev's older daughter was elected too with many other pro-government people), and suspecting unfair elections. President elections will be held this year in November, A.Akaev's term is finishing but analysts say that he wanted to strengthen his support in parliament and recent elections were mostly won by pro-government candidates. People of Kyrgyzstan are not happy with this, they waited long enough and gave enough chances to Akaev, but he failed to rise country up and now he's not willing to lose his power. Kyrgyz people are requesting him to leave his post immediately. Kyrgyzstan was accepted as Heaven of Democracy in early 90ies, what a pity it can not be said now. After Ukraine, there is possibility that colorful revolution may occur in my country too. I am also for democracy. And we don't want dictators! I hope that everything will be solved peacefully and by dialogs...
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Happy Nooruz!

No'oruz is the favorite holiday of the Muslim people of the Ancient East. The roots of this holiday were established many centuries ago. The Eastern people celebrate No'oruz in spring. It lasts two weeks and begins on the 21st of March - the day of the vernal equinox - when ancient people made sacrifices to the sun. this day is the first day of New Year for Muslim people. As the old story tells us, during No'oruz people usually stopped fighting, forgave each other, and opened their hearts to kind, pyre and good feelings. Also Kyrgyz people burnt out the branch of "archa' (fir) and smoked own houses as well as all members of the family. This ceremony helps to keep away all disasters and misfortunes. All people wear new clothes and prefer gaudy colors: red, white and blue.

Traditional dish of No'oruz is "Sumolok" - porridge made from wheat, barley and millet. Parents give gifts to their children, close friends and to each other. Rich people usually give money, clothes and food to poor people.

In the evening (especially in the villages) it is tradition to get the fire going and jump over it. It is a symbolic purification that helps to clear heart and mind. No'oruz is also a holiday of prayers. In the old days people usually prayed for crops, good luck, health, peace and happiness so that the coming year will be fertile and generous.
“Alas alas
Ar baleeden kalas
Eski jil ketti
Jany jil keldi
Alas alas
Aydan aman,
Jildan esen
Jakshilikti Kuday berdi
Jarik kundu kop berdi
Alas alas.”
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